Andalusian dress and ghawazee coat questions...

topic posted Fri, August 29, 2008 - 5:28 AM by  Shajara
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My first question: Does anyone have any pictures of Andalusian dance costumes and their style of dance? Were big skirts worn, and was there any such thing as a gypsy-Arabic fusion dance before 1600 AD?
Sounds crazy, but I have this song that I'm dying to dance to, which is an Arabic-Flamenco fusion (all on oud). It really needs a 25 yard skirt to pull it off nicely : )

Second question: Does anyone have suggestions for sources to buy Ottoman-style cotton fabric? I just came back from Istanbul and found nothing good there in the Grand Bazaar! What is that coat called that the Cengis wore? (Not a ghawazee, technically, but looks similar).

Thanks for any input!
posted by:
Shajara
Chicago
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  • Re: Andalusian dress and ghawazee coat questions...

    Fri, August 29, 2008 - 10:26 AM
    Pacita posted Ana Ruiz's Webpage on the zambra mora style of flamenco music, and I think it's pretty definitive. The author has done a lot of research on the subject, and continues to do so.

    The piece you are describing sounds lovely, but 25-yard-skirts were never worn before 1600. They're definitely a 19th century thing.

    For your Ottoman-style cotton fabric, have you tried decorating stores or the decorating fabrics at JoAnne's? Some of the patterns and styles can surprise you!
  • Re: Andalusian dress and ghawazee coat questions...

    Wed, September 3, 2008 - 7:29 AM
    My first teacher, Habiba, gives workshops on medieval Andalusian dance:

    www.associatedcontent.com/artic...k.html

    Her costume, of course, is a very modern interpretation of what they wore, via Tunisia. You can e-mail at habibaraqs@aol.com for more information.

    There is a traditional Tunisian style of music called "Andalusian."

    www.emusic.com/album/Vari...79972.html.

    Here is more about this style of dance, from a workshop with Amel Tafsout:

    "The court dances originate from Arabo-Andalusian dance traditions and are performed exclusively by women with a very
    traditional city background (Algiers, Constantine, Fes, Meknes, Tetouan, Tunis, Sousse) at various festivities such as weddings
    or at the end of a classical Andalusian concert. The dancers wear very elaborate costumes and start the dance with small steps,
    gently moving their hips and using beautiful arabesques with their hands or with scarves. This dance is very soft and gracious."

    What you're seeing is the North African interpretation of Persian dance, brought there by the Iraqi Abbasids. The leading musician in medieval Muslim Spain, who established a school in Cordova that taught the definitive style of music and poetry, came straight from Baghdad:

    www.theworldly.org/Articles...usic.html


    • Re: Andalusian dress and ghawazee coat questions...

      Wed, September 3, 2008 - 8:47 AM
      I remember seeing this pic of Habiba before, maybe when I was searching teachers of Andalusian dance. It's a lovely costume, and despite what one might say of historical accuracy, bearing the belly for me is the essence of belly dance :)

      Thanks for the info. I also received more info from Ana Ruiz... if anyone else is interested in Andalusian dance costume, feel free to contact me and I'll forward what she wrote.
      • Re: Andalusian dress and ghawazee coat questions...

        Tue, September 9, 2008 - 9:52 PM
        Somewhat unrelated question... can somebody tell me the yardage required for the turkish vest and the ghawazee coat (based on Atira's pattern)? I'm scoping out fabric but haven't bought the patterns yet.
        Thanks!
        • Re: Andalusian dress and ghawazee coat questions...

          Sat, September 13, 2008 - 10:39 PM
          Hi Kahina

          The Turkish vest takes anywhere from 3/4 yard to 1 1/2 yard (depending on size)

          Ghawazee coat: long 3 1/3 or 3 yds (depending on width of fabric you buy)
          hip length 1 3/8 yds to 2 yards
          According to the pattern there is no size difference as far as how much fabric you need. I would assume that for a larger size, to be on the safe side, get a little extra (?).

          If you are making harem pants: 3-4 yards of fabric will do it (depending on how tall and pouffy you want them).

          And here's a shameless plug for a great fabric merchant: fabrics-store.com - they have the BEST linen!! And good pricing...and for every dollar you spend you earn points that turn into store credit (when you buy a lot of fabric that sort of thing REALLY makes a difference!)

          Happy Sewing!!

          Zoe
          • Re: Andalusian dress and ghawazee coat questions...

            Sun, September 14, 2008 - 11:23 AM
            Thanks a million! I will take a look at that website. I've been looking all over the web and so far ebay seems the most promising :)
            • Re: Andalusian dress and ghawazee coat questions...

              Sun, September 14, 2008 - 11:44 AM
              From my own personal expereince, be careful with ebay. I have two occasions where the lighting was off and what i thought would match perfectly was about four shades off. Make sure the seller has a return policy.
              Fabrics-store.com has free swatches as well....makes it much easier to match things (if you're matchy like I am :) )
              denverfabrics.com used to have free swatches but since they were sold to another party, you have to buy 1/2 of a yard of a fabric to see if you like the feel, texture, thickness and whatnot.
              Happy hunting!!
              Zoe
  • Re: Andalusian dress and ghawazee coat questions...

    Sun, September 14, 2008 - 5:17 AM
    I think the best person I know who dances Andalusian style is the Lovely and Most Honorable Mistress Isolde of the Barony of Seleone in the Kingdom of Gleann Abhann.

    Her garb is amazing and I pale in comparison to her, but we both tend to wear skirts that "float" when dancing. I'm still doing quite a lot of research on the topic, but if you wanted, you could contact the Barony to contact her for further information.

    Here is the link:
    www.seleone.org/seleonepeople.html
    If you scroll down towards the bottom, you can see a full length photo of her and what she wears :)

    Yours in Service,
    ~Maria, mund. Amber
    • Re: Andalusian dress and ghawazee coat questions...

      Sun, September 14, 2008 - 11:28 AM
      Yes, I remember somebody suggested I contact her. I thought of veering towards that style but wanted to keep in the "Middle Eastern" realm somehow. Although looking at a book on real Moresco dress, they basically wear potato bags, so I might think twice about Arab-Andalusian dress altogether. The fan dance must be lovely though!

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